Conversation with a Home Inspector

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I recently had a wonderful conversation with Adam Frers, owner of CIRCA Property Inspection Services. Adam has served many of my buyer clients through the years as I have recommended him as a trusted home inspector. He’s provided great reports and excellent communication to my clients in the past, so I knew he’d be a great fit for this article. Below you’ll see the series of questions I asked Adam in green and his responses in italics. You may notice we talk a lot about crawlspaces. I’ve found the crawlspace to be a sore spot in many transactions and I think it needs some attention here. A crawlspace can be a wonderful feature of a home when it’s properly maintained and kept dry. I love the detailed explanation that he shares about the various ways to accomplish that. At the end, I’ll provide Adam’s contact information should you have a need for a home inspector or a follow-up question! Get ready for lots of great information about homeownership and helpful hints from an expert who has seen it all.

What is the difference between a sealed and unsealed crawlspace?

Crawlspace environments are their very own category of science, which have been studied and tested under nearly every condition. The takeaway from those studies concluded that every home is a snowflake. Waterproofing measures that work for one home may not have the same effect in similar builds. There are however common denominators that can contribute to the need to install more aggressive waterproofing measures.  Poor drainage conditions, clogged gutters, improper grading, missing or incomplete vapor barrier, unprotected foundation vents below grade level, and poor crawlspace ventilation are factors that we typically see creating unhealthy environments below our homes.

In this battle to maintain dry environments below our homes there are several weapons that we can use:

Vapor barrier – plastic sheeting that covers the crawlspace soil. This is an absolute must in our area and installing a consistent plastic barrier below the home prevents tens of gallons of water from the soil from becoming airborne and being absorbed by the wood components of the floor structure and fiberglass batt insulation.

French drain – a perforated plastic pipe buried in the ground inside the perimeter of the crawlspace which is covered in gravel. A French drain’s job is to collect and disburse any moisture that is able to penetrate the foundation wall to a more appropriate location outside of the home.

Dehumidifier – an electronic machine that collects moisture in the crawlspace air and drains it to the exterior of the home. Dehumidifiers are typically installed in conjunction with sealed (closed), and conditioned crawlspaces.

Sump pump – a water pump installed in a basin typically in the low spot of the crawlspace. Sump pumps are often connected to the French drains and/or in basement homes. They collect and disburse any moisture that is able to penetrate the foundation walls.

So back to the question at hand, what is a “sealed” crawlspace?

The appropriate name for a “sealed” crawlspace is a “closed” crawlspace. A closed crawlspace is created by installing a plastic vapor barrier that not only covers the ground below the home, but also the foundation walls, columns, and piers as well. The screened foundation vents are sealed off creating a completely closed envelope. If a home has poor drainage conditions, then a French drain and sump pump will also be installed beneath the plastic. Closed crawlspaces also utilize a dehumidifier to capture and disburse any latent moisture in the crawlspace air to a more appropriate location. If a gas furnace is located in a closed crawlspace, then a dedicated air pipe will also have to be installed so that the furnace has enough oxygen to function in a safe and effective manner.

A “conditioned” crawlspace is simply a “closed” crawlspace in which a mechanical contractor will create vents in the ductwork below the home to allow some of the heated and cooled air manufactured by the mechanical system to be dispensed below the home. This creates a nearly equal temperature environment between the crawlspace and home.

Closed crawlspaces are relatively expensive; however, if done correctly they can help to prolong the life of the home. While closed crawlspaces are very effective in maintaining a dry environment below the home, they are NOT maintenance-free. Maintaining the sump pump and dehumidifier is a very important part of owning an effective, sealed crawlspace.

Should I leave the vents on my crawlspace open or closed? Does this answer change throughout the seasons?

Going back to the snowflake analogy, it really depends on the home and its surrounding conditions. In most cases, homeowners will simply leave the screened foundation vents open all year round. Some homes though could benefit from opening and closing them seasonally. It’s all about trial and error when it comes to keeping a crawlspace dry.

What type of cracks on my house should be evaluated by an expert? Hairline cracks in the foundation? Cracks in the mortar between the bricks? Is there a certain pattern to the crack (e.g. stairstep) that is a bigger deal? Cracks in the driveway, sidewalk or garage?

When it comes to a home inspection, many home inspectors will recommend further evaluation by a licensed and qualified structural engineer in most cases of cracking. The North Carolina Home Inspection Licensure Board (NCHILB) does not want home inspectors weighing in on cracking or rendering a verdict on the cracks unless the inspectors have a structural engineer background. For homeowners, however, here are definite conditions that should cause them to seek out an engineer sooner than later:

Horizontal cracks to a basement wall.

Multiple cracks to basement walls.

Cracks to the brick/stone veneer above automatic garage doors.

Cracks that start at the top of the wall and go all the way down to the ground.

Cracks wider than a quarter of an inch.

Cracks on either side of a corner of a home.

Signs of displacement to the bricks and/or blocks.

Most homeowners know their homes better than they give themselves credit for, but there is definite value in a structural engineer’s assessment of a home that is experiencing signs of unwanted movement. 

Cracks to driveways and walkways typically do not need an engineer’s assessment, however some garage floor cracks could indicate signs of movement that may require more costly repairs due to their proximity to the home itself.

How often should I clean out the gutters, my dryer vent, etc.?

Gutters and dryer exhaust vents should be cleaned as needed. If there are many trees on the property, then the homeowner may have to clean the gutters twice during the fall.

Dryer exhaust vents should typically be inspected and cleaned annually; however, if the clothes are becoming more difficult to dry, then that may be a sign that the dryer exhaust vent is clogged and in need of cleaning as soon as possible.

In this area is it ever necessary to let water drip overnight? At what temperature would you recommend that? Should we purchase cheap hose bib covers for wintertime?

Hose bib covers are a great idea. They are cheap, easy to install, and are effective!

Homeowners can consider allowing one of their plumbing fixtures to drip slightly when the outside temperatures are freezing (32°F and below).

What is the average lifespan of a roof? What about an HVAC unit? Smoke detectors?

The typical lifespan of a roof is about 20 – 25 years however, the rubber boot flashings for the plumbing vent pipes usually fail before the shingles and will likely need to be replaced at some point over the life of the roof.

The average lifespan of mechanical equipment typically ranges between 15 – 25 years. Homeowners can prolong the lifespan of their mechanical equipment by having annual to semi-annual inspections, and by changing their filters on a regular basis.

Smoke detectors typically have an 8 – 10 year lifespan.

What is the best placement for carbon monoxide detectors?

Carbon monoxide detectors should be located on the ceilings in the hallways of each level of the home. Carbon monoxide detectors should also be installed in rooms with gas log fireplaces. Carbon monoxide molecules are so small that they can easily travel through drywall, and they do not rise or fall but rather mix easily with the air inside the home.

What is something that you see a lot of homeowners neglect that poses problems in their home inspections?

Crawlspaces. Many homeowners ignore the condition of their crawlspace. In most cases, crawlspaces are “out of sight and out of mind.” Wood rot, microbial growth, structural deficiencies, leaking and damaged plumbing or mechanical equipment, rodents, and wood-destroying insects can all cause costly damage to the home.

Do you ever see radon or termites in this area, (specifically Waxhaw/Weddington/Marvin).

Short answer . . . YES and YES. Those are common conditions in those areas.

If we had a leak and it’s been repaired, does the drywall need to be replaced, or can it be painted over? How will we know if it’s too damaged/too wet/risk of mold or future damage?

Unfortunately, it does not take a very long time for fungal growth to form on building materials when it has been repeatedly contacted by moisture. That being said, the longer the leak has been occurring, the more likely it is that microbial growth has formed on the building materials. If the leakage is persistent then the homeowner may need to perform a more invasive inspection to determine the condition on the backside of the drywall and the interior of the wall/floor/ceiling assemblies around the affected area.

Any advice on how to prepare for the home inspection when selling your home?

Homeowners should consider having a pre-listing home inspection performed if they are unsure of the condition of their home prior to putting it on the market. The home inspector will give their clients a detailed list of items that do not function as intended, safety defects, or items that warrant further evaluation by specialists.  A pre-listing home inspection will save the seller from any last-minute surprises during the sale of their home.

Hope this has been helpful to you and maybe even leaves you anxious to go check out your crawlspace or think about some semi-annual maintenance items like dryer vent cleaning, HVAC service, etc. A well-maintained home is the easiest to sell and the best to buy! Thanks for taking the time to join our conversation.

Adam Frers with CIRCA Property Inspection Services has been a licensed home inspector in North and South Carolina for the last 14 years. Adam not only has state licenses but is also an InterNACHI certified inspector. Adam’s available services include home inspections, radon inspections, wood-destroying insect reports, well water quality testing, thermal imaging inspections, and framing (pre-drywall) inspections. Circainspections.com